The Castle of Giove, ancient stone fortified palace with tower, lit by the sunset in the Umbrian village.

The Castle of Giove

Surrounded by the ancient village that gradually grew around it, the Castle of Giove – also known as the Ducal Palace or Palazzo Mattei – dominates the lower Tiber Valley, offering visitors an exceptional view stretching from Mount Amiata to the Cimini Mountains and Mount Soratte.

A long history lost through the centuries

Probably built on the remains of an ancient pagan temple dedicated to Jupiter (from which the settlement takes its name), the first certain records of the Castel di Jugo, as it was called in documents, date back to 1191. Throughout the 13th century it was contested by the communes of Orvieto, Todi, and Amelia because of its strategic position between Umbria and Lazio. It became the scene of occupations and battles involving powerful feudal lords and noble families, including Sciarra Colonna, the Orsini, the Alviano, and the Anguillara. In 1503 the ancient fortress was almost completely stripped of its defensive structures due to the military intervention of Cesare Borgia.

In the mid-sixteenth century it became a fief of the powerful Roman Farnese family; however, in 1597 Matteo Farnese sold the castle to the marquises of the noble Mattei family, Asdrubale and Cesare. Asdrubale in particular was a great patron of the arts, protector of Caravaggio and patron of the architect Carlo Maderno for the family palace in Rome. He wished to restore the ancient castle as a refined residence and make it his summer home.

In 1643 Pope Urban VIII granted Girolamo Mattei the title of Duke; from that moment, the castle became known as the Ducal Palace. The last Mattei heir was Duchess Maria Anna, who married Marquis Antici of Recanati. Because of this family connection, Adelaide Antici, mother of the poet Giacomo Leopardi, stayed at the palace several times. After changing hands numerous times, the palace belonged from 1985 to 2013 to the American horror film director and producer Charles Robert Band.

The current owner, Roberta Fiocca, purchased the palace in 2014. It can be visited by appointment or during periodic guided tours, and it regularly hosts exhibitions, conferences, and celebrations. Included among the FAI’s “Places of the Heart,” since 2015 it has also housed the Cultural Association “Charles Moulin”, dedicated to promoting the life and work of this singular French artist who arrived in Italy in 1896 and devoted himself to a life of hermitage and painting in the mountains of Molise.

The palace with 365 windows

The castle’s current appearance derives from the sixteenth-century restoration works begun by the Farnese and completed by the Mattei, carried out by architects of the Vignola school.

The entrance consists of a rusticated travertine portal leading into a large hall decorated with Doric columns.

On the right stands an imposing spiral ramp that once allowed carriages to reach the piano nobile. It leads to the palace loggia, from which one can admire the magnificent panorama of the Tiber Valley, before walking along a porticoed corridor that leads to the apartments.

The palace is arranged over five floors with three corner towers; to the east stands the keep, a tall fortified tower crowned by an attic with a Ghibelline-style crenellated cornice supported by machicolations. The façades contain 365 windows, one for every day of the year.

The third floor features sumptuous halls whose ceilings are decorated with mythological frescoes attributed to Domenico Zampieri, known as Domenichino (1581–1641), Paolo Caliari, known as Veronese (1528–1588), and Orazio Alfani (1510–1583). On the fourth floor there are also several rooms used as prisons, with isolation cells and a trapdoor through which the condemned were made to fall.

The entire palace unfolds through a fascinating succession of halls, terraces, and walkways. In short, it is well worth a stop!

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